Sun, Oh Glorious Sun

Day 157 - September 9

Mile: 2528.3 to 2546.6 (18.3)

up/down: 4200/5600 feet

How long since we've seen the sun all day? It was back in August. We both couldn't believe our eyes when we awoke to no clouds, no fog, nothing but blue sky. From our lofty perch high on a ridge we had 360 degree views of the surrounding mountains. Beautiful. As expected, it got cold and wet overnight with frost on everything and ice in the water bottles. 

 

 

 

 

We started at the high point for the day and commenced with a 3500 foot descent, first to Vista Creek and then on to the huge Suiattle River. At Vista we were able to explode our packs and dry everything out. Yay!

 

The bridge over the Suiattle River was built in 2011 replacing an earlier bridge that was swept away in a flood. The river today was mostly glacial melt. You can see by the size of the river channel that this is a beast in spring runoff. Even now it is a formidable river that we would not want to mess with crossing on foot. By the time we crossed the bridge we were at 2300 feet elevation - it's been a while since we've been so low. 

 

 

Of course what goes down must go back up, and we did. The rest of the afternoon was climbing up to our camp along Miners Creek at 4500 feet. The forest it thick here and we should be warm enough tonight.  We will stage tomorrow evening for an early morning arrival at our last resupply stop on Sunday in Stehekin. More on that later. 

A Slow Morning

Day 156 - September 8

Mile: 2508.8 to 2528.3 (19.5)

up/down: 7800/6100

Almost 8000 feet of climbing. Throw in the rain all last night and the horrific trail conditions all morning, this was a tough day. 

We awoke to a soggy camp but at least the rain had stopped. We broke camp and started our first big ascent of the day. We walked in the clouds pretty much all morning which was very depressing. The trail was in as bad a condition as any we've seen in 2500 miles. Many, many blowdowns some having been there so long that a complex use trail went around them. Others were impossible to go around so had to be climbed. The overgrown vegetation was terrible with trees growing in the trail that were between 5 and 10 years old. Come on Congress, how about some funding for maintenance of a National Scenic Trail that you created. What a disgrace. By lunch we had barely made 6.5 miles. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trail and weather improved in the afternoon as we cleared Fire Creek Pass and made the 3000+ foot descent to Milk Creek, passing Micah Lake along the way. We finally got some views of the immense Glacier Peak we've been circling for two days.

 

 

 

And since our legs hadn't been beat into total submission, we tackled the 3000 foot ascent back into the high country and a camp above 5000 feet elevation for the night. We had to get the miles in but this will be a cold one. It was already below 40F when we camped at 7pm. The views coming in this evening were spectacular, we  have hope for more tomorrow. 

 

Washington, We Are Sure You Are Beautiful...

Day 155 - September 7 (Happy birthday to our son Bobby!)

Mile: 2491.1 to 2508.8 (17.7)

up/down: 3800/5800 feet 

... if we could just see more of you. Another day in the clouds after a night of heavy rain. Thankfully the rain let up in the morning and let us get packed and hike through lunch before returning for the afternoon. 

Sunrise from camp 

We hiked from Lake Sally Ann and continued along the ridge. We had a few glimpses as the clouds moved around and occasionally broke up to see some mountains. Just before lunch we passed through White Pass and the sun emerged from the clouds. We quickly threw down the packs and grabbed lunch fixings. I even set the tent out to dry. Minutes later a cloud ate us and it was drizzling again. Ugh.

 

 

We continued up along the ridge and crossed the ridge over Red Pass. Here we were in true alpine habitat again. If it would have been clearer we may have seen Glacier Peak and some of the many glaciers in this area. 

 

 

Then the quad busting big descent from our high point near 6500 feet all the way down to 3700 feet in just a few miles. The canyon we dropped into had glacier fed creeks and awesome rain forest habitat. With another big climb coming, a steady drizzle falling, and no sure camping ahead, we bailed a little early. Camp chores were mostly finished before any serious rain fell. That is supposed to come later tonight. 

 

 

 

We ran into a couple of the young people we've hiked with off and on since Oregon again last night and today. As they are pushing on farther than us today we may not see them again. Thanks Sweet P and Mogli for the good times, you are both nice to be around. 

 

 

We passed the 2500 mile mark shortly after lunch. Only 150 miles to go!

 

 

Catching a Break

Day 154 - September 6

Mile: 2471.4 to 2491.1 (19.7)

up/down: 5600/4250 feet

I wrote the other day about not catching any breaks in the northern cascades. Well we sure did last night and today. The forecast of half an inch for the day didn't come to be. After a few sprinkles in the early morning it was breaking up by 7:00. We were up and after as big a day as we could pull off with good weather. We set our sights on Lake Sally Ann 20 miles out. With over 5000 feet of climbing it would be a tough day. 

The trail ascended from the lake to the crest and stayed there all day - crossing back and forth over several passes and gaps, many with leg crushing climbs and drops. It was partly cloudy all day so we had some great views at times. 

 

 

 

We had lunch at Pear Lake and were even able to explode our packs in the sun for a while. Dry stuff again!

 

We made our destination and even got here at a reasonable hour. It's definitely a three Advil evening. This whole 100+ mile section has bunches of climbing. Hopefully it doesn't kill us...

 

 

 

 

Coppertone Magic

Day 153 - September 5

Mile: 2457.4 to 2471.4 (14.0)

up/down: 2700/3100 feet

New trip bird: Golden-crowned Sparrow and Northern Saw-whet Owl. 

From our camp to Stevens Pass Lodge took us over the ski mountain. Nothing like a nice thousand foot climb for breakfast. While trudging up the hill we kicked up a mixed sparrow flock in the blueberry bushes and found a few Golden-crowned for a new trip bird. 

 

 

 

Waiting in the hiker parking lot at the pass was super magic trail angel Coppertone. A 2006 thru hiker himself, he is a legend among trail angels traveling up the trail all through spring and summer positioning his RV at the peak of the herd and doing magic. Since we've been ahead of the herd from the start we never met Coppertone. No more. As we get closer to the finish we are being absorbed by the herd. The number of hikers remaining is much smaller than earlier so we really haven't noticed all that much difference. We are meeting some new people and that's always fun. We had coffee/tea and donuts with Coppertone and talked trail for a while. It was fun meeting the legend. Thanks Coppertone for the food and company!

 

We got our box, charged batteries, and ate a bunch more food at he lodge. Then it was time to hike. We had the rest of day to make 10 miles up and over a high ridge and get to Lake Janus at lower altitude. Tonight and at least tomorrow morning are supposed to be pouring rain and I want us safely off the high exposed ridge. The lake here is nice and we're tucked in some trees for protection. We brought extra food and will sit out this storm in the tent as necessary tomorrow. If the forecast holds the rest of the week looks decent, at least for Washington in the fall. 

 

 

As dusk turns to night we hear the unmistakable call of a Northern Saw-whet Owl and he's going nuts. No idea what set him off so late in the year but we will take it. Another new trip bird. 

That Was Steep

Day 152 - September 4

Mile: 2442.2 to 2457.4 (15.2)

up/down: 4500/4300 feet

The altitude profile today was like a sawtooth with really steep sides. It was some of the steepest grades we've seen on the trail. One mile half mile long section was at 2000 feet per mile grade. Others were similar. By the time we quit our legs were wobbly from the effort. At least it didn't rain. 

 

What we could see of the mountains today around the low clouds looked quite stunning. Hopefully the days ahead will give us more good views.

 

 

 

 

We couldn't make the Stevens Pass ski lodge before closing time so stopped a few miles out at Susan Jane Lake. After a relatively calm day the wind picked up to a gusty gale as we pitched the tent. Sometimes I wonder if we'll catch a break at all in the northern cascades. We'll head in to the lodge first thing, get our box and hopefully something to eat, then continue on. 

 

We did pass 2450 today so have less than 200 miles to go. Depending on weather and terrain, September 14 or 15 is looking likely for a finish. 

Any Hiking Day With No Rain is a Good Day

Day 151 - September 3

Mile: 2425.3 to 2442.2 (16.9)

up/down: 4350/2900 feet

It rains all night, all night. We ignore the alarm as rain pounds the tent. Finally around 7:00 it lets up enough that we consider moving. I heat water in the tent vestibule, a rarity for sure. We drink coffee and tea while waiting. When it stops completely we make a mad dash to get packed up and on the trail. As hard as we've worked to keep the inside stuff dry there is the dampness that two solid days and nights of rain can't avoid. Oh but for some sun to dry things out ...

Another hard day in store as we climb out of the valley toward Cathedral Pass. The late start means we won't make big miles today but that's okay. I planned this section at just over 17 miles per day and we're still on track even with the rain. As we climb we see a few patches of blue and are thrilled for no rain since we left camp. Near the pass Susan spots a flat spot with dry rocks to sit on for a lunch break. While we're there the sun pokes out with enough intensity that we quickly explode the packs and start drying. The sun stays out for half an hour and we are grateful. When we pack up most everything is dry again, especially our tent and bags. Life is good. 

 

 

 

We reach the pass a short time later as the clouds form again on the crest. Quickly we scamper down the other side into a lovely valley. We have fun picking our way across a cascading creek that plunges out of a narrow notch from some unseen cirque above. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then it's up to Deception Pass, a low ridge at the end of the valley. Dropping over the other side we consider our options. The clouds are thickening again so continuing up toward Piper Pass seems foolish. There is a creek with camping close by and we bail.  Just as camp chores are done and dinner is made the big rain drops start falling. But we're not hiking and snug in the tent so we can live with it.  

 

With 18 miles and more big climbs left to our next resupply at Stevens Pass it's unlikely we'll try and get there tomorrow evening. We'll probably pull up short and stop the next morning. There isn't much to this resupply stop, just a small ski area that is mostly closed up in summer. Luckily they do accept resupply boxes so we don't have to hitch to town. Only one more resupply after this.