Japan A Day of Lacquer, Plum Trees, and Rock Gardens

Nishi honganji is the head temple of one of the many sects of Buddhism in Japan. Yep, there are too many for me to keep track of them all. I really liked this one as they all seemed open and friendly. Lots of stuff to look at in their complex. We stayed for longer than we expected as one area was open that is only open a few days of the year. We expected to see another dragon ceiling, instead we looked at the outside of a building. We knew we should be impressed, but it was only later that we sorted out why. It turns out it is one of the three great pavilions of Kyoto, the other two being the gold and silver pavilions. It was started during the shogunate of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the second great unifier of Japan. So, even if we didn’t get it at the time, it is a really important building. While we were waiting for it to open, we were relaxing and admiring the Buddha, when a group of nursery school kids came in. That was a highlight of the day listening to them sing. 

Karamon gate is where we started.  It is lavish, and we spent a good deal of time admiring it.  It is also very old having been built in Fushimi in around 1598 and relocated when Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the great unifier, built this complex.  You can read more about it here.

While we were sitting watching the service, everyone's phone went off with an emergency alert.  We all grabbed and looked.  As soon as I saw emergency alert, I thought, it must be a big one, earthquake, in Tokyo as we felt nothing.  Fortunately, it was just a drill.  Everyone breathed a big sigh of relief.

Then it was time to go see the star of the show, Hiunkaku (Flying Cloud Pavilion).  And to say we were underwhelmed would be an understatement.  We had our hearts set on another dragon ceiling.  Instead, we were looking at the outside of a building.   We didn't get it.  Later we learned it is one of the three great pavilions, the other being the gold and silver and we were very lucky to have even gotten a glimpse.  Further reading can be found here.  Consider ourselves chastened.  

Feeling down as we didn't yet realize what we just saw, we headed to Toji. We were sure to be cheered up by the tallest wooden pagoda in Kyoto and my favorite, blooming plum trees!

We ended at Tofukuji Temple. Now, this temple is famous for its gardens. What did I want to see?  Its toilets! Yep, the oldest preserved toilet complex in Japan. And it did not disappoint. Commonly referred to as a restroom for a hundred people. You and every other monk in the place can get together and have a communal crap. Just be careful not to fall in. The holes looked to be at least a foot across. Oh, the gardens were lovely too. 

This must be lovely in fall.

The star of the show.

Love those rock gardens!

 

Japan One Crazy Long Day

Some days, we did exploring in moderation, and then there was this day.  With an early start we were able to walk past the Hokanji pagoda without the hordes that usually pack the street.  We were heading to Kiyomizu, a vast sprawling temple complex.  

Almost empty

Afterwards we walked through a sea of narrow streets, many people, Amazon delivery vans and taxis to the bus and Manshuim temple. Established in the 8th century and containing extraordinary examples of Shoin architecture.  It was filled with lovely paintings and was so empty and peaceful.  No photos were allowed inside.

We stumbled upon Enkoji and knew nothing about it, but it was on the way, so why not.  Turns out this was one of our favorites, an amazing rock garden and great paintings.  Even a few plum trees.  Very very nice.

After seeing the two other famous pagodas of Kyoto, we had to visit the Silver Pavilion, Ginkakuji.  Very famous.  Very crowded.  

Then we wandered to Honenin, which one author described as his favorite temple bar none.  We didn't share his enthusiasm.  

Otoyo Shrine with its rats, and Kumano Nyakuoji Shrine with its healing calf.  Yes, you rub the calf on whatever body part is not up to scratch, and it then it feels better.  We rubbed the back and boy howdy after a nice sitting rest and some water, our backs did feel better.  

Rubbing its back relieved our back pain

Rats were new

Eikan do Temple is a fall foliage must do.  As we were here in spring, we thought about skipping it.  It is also lovely in spring.  Rock gardens, paintings, buddhas, in a peaceful setting.  We had to rush though as we had one more stop we planned to visit.

Nanzwn ji did not disappoint.  It was one of the main points of our day, but having spent too much time in other temples, we were rushed.  Another stop we wished we had more time to enjoy.  Fortunately, we quit doing crazy packed days after this one.

The paintings were lovely

And a nice rock garden

We couldn't take photos of some of the wall paintings, but we could of the movie showing the wall paintings.

It was dark and I was very hungry when we finished.  We saw a hamburger place named dragon burger.  It sounded appropriate.  After that it was just more walking to the bus and a nice hot soak in our tub.  30,000 steps on concrete feels like a million miles on the trail.