Japan One Crazy Long Day

Some days, we did exploring in moderation, and then there was this day.  With an early start we were able to walk past the Hokanji pagoda without the hordes that usually pack the street.  We were heading to Kiyomizu, a vast sprawling temple complex.  

Almost empty

Afterwards we walked through a sea of narrow streets, many people, Amazon delivery vans and taxis to the bus and Manshuim temple. Established in the 8th century and containing extraordinary examples of Shoin architecture.  It was filled with lovely paintings and was so empty and peaceful.  No photos were allowed inside.

We stumbled upon Enkoji and knew nothing about it, but it was on the way, so why not.  Turns out this was one of our favorites, an amazing rock garden and great paintings.  Even a few plum trees.  Very very nice.

After seeing the two other famous pagodas of Kyoto, we had to visit the Silver Pavilion, Ginkakuji.  Very famous.  Very crowded.  

Then we wandered to Honenin, which one author described as his favorite temple bar none.  We didn't share his enthusiasm.  

Otoyo Shrine with its rats, and Kumano Nyakuoji Shrine with its healing calf.  Yes, you rub the calf on whatever body part is not up to scratch, and it then it feels better.  We rubbed the back and boy howdy after a nice sitting rest and some water, our backs did feel better.  

Rubbing its back relieved our back pain

Rats were new

Eikan do Temple is a fall foliage must do.  As we were here in spring, we thought about skipping it.  It is also lovely in spring.  Rock gardens, paintings, buddhas, in a peaceful setting.  We had to rush though as we had one more stop we planned to visit.

Nanzwn ji did not disappoint.  It was one of the main points of our day, but having spent too much time in other temples, we were rushed.  Another stop we wished we had more time to enjoy.  Fortunately, we quit doing crazy packed days after this one.

The paintings were lovely

And a nice rock garden

We couldn't take photos of some of the wall paintings, but we could of the movie showing the wall paintings.

It was dark and I was very hungry when we finished.  We saw a hamburger place named dragon burger.  It sounded appropriate.  After that it was just more walking to the bus and a nice hot soak in our tub.  30,000 steps on concrete feels like a million miles on the trail.

Japan Throwing Away our Bad Karma

 Tenryu ji was our go to site this morning. I read one building had an amazing tapestry of Buddha obtaining nirvana which is hundreds of years old and another a modern dragon ceiling.   Dragon ceiling link.   The large painting of a cloud dragon ceiling seems to be directly looking at you where ever you are in the building. This effect, known in Japanese as happo-nirami ("all direction gaze"), symbolizes the all-seeing eyes with which the dragon protects Buddhism. Painted in 1997 by the famous Japanese painter Matazō Kayama, it was one of several commemorative projects commissioned for the 650th anniversary of the death of Musō Soseki. And who is Musō Soseki , well you can read all about him here.

Brochure photo

Susan photo

We loved Jingo ji temple, which was our next stop. In spite of being so near the crowds, it was majestically empty. This might be due to the hundreds of stairs you have to climb to get there. And the fact it isn’t fall leaf season. It gets crazy then. In the spring, it is peaceful and empty.  And we got to throw our bad karma to the wind.  Very fun.

The disk you use to throw your bad karma away

On the way back we went to Kennin ji temple as they had another dragon ceiling painting. Constructed in 1202, it is considered to be the oldest zen temple in Kyoto, while the dragon ceiling was just a few years old.  Yep, even another new dragon ceiling was enough to draw us in.

Dragon screens, a very nice bonus.

It is a very nice ceiling

Plum blossoms.  Very nice.