Evolution Valley

Long Lake on the approach to Bishop Pass

Months ago, my friend John from Paso Robles texted and asked if we would be interested in doing the Evolution Valley loop with him this summer. This is one of our most favorite areas in the Sierra Nevada, so after about 10 seconds of consideration we signed up. We asked if our hiking buddy Bill could come too and John quickly agreed and got the permit. We were set. 


The Evolution Valley loop hike can be accomplished using a number of different trailheads and routes, but we planned to do probably the most traditional - joining the North Lake (Piute Pass) trailhead with South Lake (Bishop Pass). This makes for a very easy car shuttle between the trailheads and sets up a hiking loop of about 55 miles through some of the most spectacular scenery anywhere.

Our hike track link

South Lake bird list
Long Lake bird list
Spearhead Lake
Saddlerock Lake
Bishop Pass Fresno
Lake 10742
PCT 831-835
PCT 835-838
PCT 838-844
PCT 844-849
PCT 849-853
PCT 853-858
Lower Piute Pass Trail
Middle Piute Pass Trail
Alpine Piute Pass Trail
Piute Pass Inyo
Loch Leven Lake

With only four days to go a major rain caused landslide occurred on the highway just above Aspendell blocking car access to North Lake, our permitted start trailhead. Knowing all the local trails intimately, we easily figured out a hiking detour that would only add a couple miles to the journey, no big deal. Then only two days before our departure the Forest Service announced that our trailhead was closed and they wouldn't issue any permits entering the wilderness at North Lake. Ugh... Bill came to the rescue by standing in line early the next morning and getting us a walk-up permit for South Lake and Bishop Pass. We were set, again - thanks to Bill!!

Bishop Pass isn't too difficult, climbing from 9,800 feet elevation to almost 12,000 feet over about 5 miles. Along the way we passed several alpine lakes with spectacular surrounding mountains.

Bill and John at Long Lake, with Bishop Pass in the distant background

Looking back down to Bishop and Saddlerock Lakes from near Bishop Pass

The final approach to the pass

At the pass

Looking down toward Dusy Basin

Once on top we looked down into the beautiful Dusy Basin and stopped for a leisurely lunch. As we started down the storm clouds built up quickly. Thankfully we were able to get to our intended camp area just as it started to rain. Shelters came out of the packs in a hurry, were pitched haphazardly, and we all dove in to wait out the rain. By 5pm the storm had mostly broken up leaving us a pleasant evening for cooking and a short side excursion to a nearby ridge overlooking Rainbow Lakes.

The clouds build over Dusy Basin

Mts. Agaziz, Winchell, Thunderbol Peak, and North Palisade

Looking down canyon from our camp near Lake 10742

The storm clouds break

A dramatic sunset from the ridge above Rainbow Lakes

That would be the last rain we would see until an hour before the hike ended days later. The next morning was clear and bright as we descended the dozens of switchbacks from Dusy Basin into Le Conte Canyon to join the John Muir Trail (JMT). 

Descending from Dusy Basin to Le Conte Canyon

Nearing Le Conte Canyon

Once in Le Conte canyon and on the JMT we turned north and started the long ascent toward Muir Pass. Susan and I passed this way in early June on our 2016 thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail, and it sure looked different this time not covered in snow! The Middle Fork Kings River runs through this canyon with its headwaters at the pass in front of us. The scenery here is spectacular as you move up canyon through Little and Big Pete Meadows and start the serious climbing. By afternoon we had made good progress to the pass. As we tired Susan found us a great campsite with exceptional views of the Black Giant, well away from the overused campsites and throngs of JMT hikers. 

Moving up Le Conte Canyon

Big Pete Meadow

The famous "Rock Monster" of Le Conte Canyon

The Rock Monster claims another victim

Climbing above the meadows

Looking back down canyon

John pauses at a section of trail blasted out of the mountain

Black Giant from camp

Another great view from camp

We awoke to another beautiful day and continued our climb to Muir Pass at 11,955 feet elevation. This pass on the Goddard Divide separates the waters of the Kings and San Joaquin Rivers and is the midway point for hikers on the 210 mile JMT. The approach is stark and beautiful and offers incredible scenery all the way up. At the top is the Muir Hut, built in 1930 by the Sierra Club to honor it's first president and co-founding member John Muir.

A small lake as we begin our final ascent of the pass

Helen Lake (named for one of Muir's daughters)

The gang at the Muir Hut

From the pass we entered the heart of the hike, the Evolution Basin and Evolution Valley. In 1895, Theodore Solomons and E. C. Bonner of the US Geological Survey named the nearby mountains the Evolution Group. Peaks in the group include Mounts Darwin, Mendel, Fiske, Haeckel, Huxley, Spencer, Wallace, and Lamarck - all evolutionists of the 19th century. The six miles of hiking from Muir Pass to the outlet of Evolution Lake is some of the finest hiking in the Sierra.

The view north from Muir Pass

Heading down to Wanda Lake (named for John Muir's other daughter)

Mt Darwin and Mendel over the basin

Mts Mendel, Darwin, Haeckel, and Wallace

Mts Haeckel and Wallace

Mts Mendel and Darwin above Saphire Lake

Mts Darwin, Haeckel, Wallace, and Huxley

Descending to Saphire Lake

Mts Fiske and Huxley

Descending to Evolution Lake

Crossing above Evolution Lake

Evolution Lake

As much as we would like to have camped in the basin, it is very overused and we needed to make a few more miles on the day. Continuing on the switchbacks below Evolution Lake we dropped into Evolution Valley and found a nice out of the way campsite near Colby Meadow along Evolution Creek. The view of The Hermit over the creek was quite nice.

The Hermit and Evolution Creek

The orange glow of sunset from the fires to the north

Day 4 had us continuing down Evolution Valley to its terminus at the South Fork San Joaquin River where it emerges from Goddard Canyon. From here we would continue down the river for our last few beautiful JMT hiking miles to the junction of the trail that heads up Piute Canyon.

McClure Meadow in early light with The Hermit beyond

Bill crosses Evolution Creek, much easier in the low water of late summer!

The final descent of Evolution Valley

Crossing the SF San Joaquin

SF San Joaquin River

Susan poses next to a gorgeous Sierra Juniper

Near the junction of the JMT and Piute Canyon trails

Crossing Piute Creek on a great bridge!

As we started the long, hot afternoon climb into Piute Canyon, our luck ran out on avoiding smoke from the fires to the north. Shifting winds brought us smoke in abundance and made the difficult climb from 8,000 feet elevation to Hutchinson Meadow at 9,500 feet kind of miserable. But we persisited and made it to camp at nice spot just below the French Canyon trail junction. 

Piute Creek

A tricky creek crossing

The smoke was a little better in the morning as we pushed up the remaining seven miles and nearly 2000 feet elevation gain to Piute Pass. An area we know well, its always fun to look upon the Glacier Divide on the south side of Piute Canyon.

Epic paintbrush and elephant's heads with Mt Humphreys beyond

Flowers with the Glacier Divide

The Glacier Divide from near the pass

One last look down Piute Canyon from the pass

After lunch, all that was left to do was scamper down the last five miles from Piute Pass in quickly building thunder clouds. A few thunder booms overhead kept the hiking pace brisk. We managed to miss all but a few raindrops and finish another spectacular visit to the backcountry!

Fireweed at Piute Pass

Looking down toward the trailhead from Piute Pass