Binoculars in the Backcountry: Backpacking Yosemite and Ansel Adams Wilderness

Banner Peak

Susan and I got out for a great five day backpacking trip into some outstanding high country at the end of July. We covered some areas we had previously been on other trips (including our 2016 PCT thru-hike), but this time wandered off trail into areas less traveled. We both agreed that this was one of the finest scenery trips we had ever been on - every time we turned there was an amazing view of the high country. And even with the huge smoke producing fires south of us, we were fortunate enough to only have hazy skies one afternoon.

Day 1 (10.8 miles, 2,764 feet elevation gain). We started from the Mono/Parker Pass trailhead near Tioga Pass, Yosemite. Hiking south we quickly attained Parker Pass at 11,100 feet elevation, dropped a little in the next valley, then ascended to the 12,260 foot elevation Koip Peak Pass. From there it was a long descent into the Alger Lakes basin and our first camp.

Starting up to Parker Pass

The Kuna Crest, we'll see this up close in a few days

Even at the end of July the flowers are still going at above 10,000 feet elevation

Look carefully, you can see Susan doing some stream hopping

From near Koip Peak Pass the view is amazing, all the way down to Mono Lake

A high country beauty - Alpine Gold (Hulsea algida)

Ascending the talus slope to Koip Peak Pass

The view north from Koip Peak Pass into Yosemite

And the view south toward our first day destination in Alger Lakes basin, June Mountain ski resort on the far left

A look back from near the lake toward the pass

Day 2 (10.3 miles, 1,139 feet elevation gain). We continued south out of Alger Lakes and down to Gem Lake before turning south and west for the climb to Clark Lakes. From there we connected to the PCT High Trail and on to Thousand Island Lake, a true gem in the Sierra. Unfortunately this area has become far too popular, but time of day and mileage had us here for the night, so we hid in a secret spot far from the popular camping areas.

Alger Lake

There is wildfire smoke in the distance, but it hasn't affected us yet

Our first glimpse of Banner Peak as we hike on

A favorite that we don't get to see often - Blushing Monkeyflower (Erythranthe erubescens)

Gem Lake below

Thousand Island Lake with Banner Peak

As we hike along the side of the mile long Thousand Island Lake there is a riot of wildflowers

Peirson's Paintbrush (Castilleja peisonii)

Thousand Island Lake looking back to the east

Day 3 (8 miles, 1,950 feet elevation gain). We hiked today to see a lake basin we had never visited - Marie Lakes - a side trip off of the PCT/John Muir Trail. After a cross-country jaunt from Thousand Island Lake to Island Pass we joined the trail again through Rush Creek to the turnoff to Marie Lake. From here there was a primitive trail that probably hasn't seen any maintenance since it was built during the Eisenhower administration. But it worked. After an intermediate climb we came to a lovely basin with the first small lakes. We continued to climb and finally reached the high, rocky and windswept Lower Marie Lake at nearly 11,000 feet elevation. After looking around at some poor and exposed possible campsites, we decided the smart thing to do was backtrack down to the lovely ponds below. Smart move, we enjoyed a pleasant late afternoon and evening with great camping and scenery.

One more look at Banner Peak in morning light

Island Pass with a view back to Banner Peak, Mount Ritter, and Mount Davis

Looking across Rush Creek toward our destination for tomorrow

Rush Creek

The first of the small lakes where we eventually came back to for camping

The intrepid hikers with Donahue Peak and Mount Andrea Lawrence in the background

The final approach to Lower Marie Lake

Lower Marie Lake

Alpenglow

Day 4 (5 miles, 1450 feet elevation gain). Today we were going way off the beaten track to find the Lost Lakes. Really, that's the name of this basin of small high lakes near the Sierra Divide and the border of Yosemite National Park. We knew where they were on the map, just not exactly how to get there. There is no trail and the lakes lie in a hanging valley near Mount Andrea Lawrence with a very steep approach. What could go wrong? We left camp and took a cross-country route, crossing over Rush Creek to the base of the approach to the lakes. We could probably have found a better route but even after some light class 2 scrambling including pushing our packs up to the top of some boulders, we made it. And before lunchtime! After a leisurely break we pushed on past the lake to the back of the basin and Lost Lakes Pass. This was our return route to get back into Yosemite using Kuna Crest Pass to complete the loop. Lost Lakes Pass at 11,450 feet elevation was an easy class 1 stroll to the top. The views were incredible so we took a good long break. Continuing down the north side wasn't difficult with some talus and snow to navigate. Once on the Kuna Crest we hunted down a campsite with amazing views. Unfortunately the wildfire smoke from the south chased us down this afternoon, but it was still a great day.

First up, a stream crossing

Everywhere you look, beautiful views

Starting up the slabs toward Lost Lakes

I was too busy huffing and puffing as we made the climb to take
many photos, and this is way steeper than it looks in photos...

Some of the tricky parts had to be done without backpacks

And some of it required rock scrambling.

We made the top!

First look at the largest of the Lost Lakes

Lost Lake and Lost Lake Pass

This old timer picked a great final resting spot. I refused to pack it home for Susan's bone collection.

Looking back down to Lost Lake from near the pass, Banner Peak and Mount Ritter still dominate the view

Looking north into the Kuna Crest, we're now back in Yosemite

Heading down from the pass

A look back at the pass

Even at the end of July there is snow to navigate if you're high enough

Some of the small lakes of the Kuna Crest

The critically endangered Yosemite Yellow-legged Frog!

Yosemite high country

Sunset at camp. Smoke haze slightly obscured our best views this afternoon so I'll save those photo views for the next day.

Wildfire smoke does make for dramatic sunsets

Day 5 (8 miles, 850 feet elevation gain). Get out day. We needed to cross the Kuna Crest to get back to the trail and the car. Kuna Cress Pass above Helen Lake was only about a mile and a half from our camp so off we went. There were a couple of tricky spots to navigate to get there, then some class 2 bouldering for several hundred feet on the descent. Overall it wasn't bad and we made Helen Lake for an early lunch. We've been here many times on day hikes so knew the way home. After a cross-country descent from Helen to Spillway Lake, a park trail took us the last 5+ miles out. This was a great trip and we discovered many new areas that will require further exploration in the future.