Binoculars in the Backcountry: Backpacking the Palisades

Lower Palisades Lake

In early August we were out again for another backpacking adventure, this time to the Palisades region of the central Sierra. We've spent a lot of time in this part of the Sierra, but had one remote spot that was on our bucket list - Palisades Basin. This high elevation series of lakes and canyons is difficult to reach. It is located off-trail north of the John Muir Trail and south of Bishop Pass, tucked tightly to the west side of the Palisades Crest. On the other side of the crest lie the Palisades and Middle Palisades Glaciers, the largest and southernmost glaciers in the Sierra.

Day 1 (9 miles, 2,675 feet elevation gain). We started out on the Bishop Pass trail from South Lake, and 5 miles and 2,000 feet of climbing later we were at the pass. From here the trail winds down through Dusy Basin to LeConte Canyon, but we weren't interested in that this day. We took off cross-country through Dusy Basin and headed for Knapsack Pass. This cross-country pass was tricky but the easiest of the three off-trail passes we would traverse in the Palisades Basin. Once on the other side we descended to the Barrett Lakes and called it a (very long) day.

South Lake near the trailhead

Long Lake and Hurd Peak

Long Lake and Mount Goode

Looking back as we ascend the pass

The entire basin we just passed though as we approach the pass

Final ascent to Bishop Pass

It was a rough time for foot bridges in the Sierra last year with record snow

Dusy Basin

Upper Dusy Basin and Isosceles Peak

Heading for Knapsack Pass

Well, maybe it was a little tricky...

Approaching the pass, Dusy Basin below

Looking south from the pass

The first of the Barrett Lakes

The larger Barrett Lake, and our camp for the night. Palisades Crest above

Our cozy home for the night

Barrett Lake in the evening light

Day 2 (4.5 miles, 1,050 feet elevation gain). From the preceding statistics, you'd think this was an easy day. Not. It was one of the toughest days of hiking we've had in a while. Two technical cross-country passes, tough route finding, and difficult terrain. Over 8 hours to go so little distance - ouch. But it was spectacularly beautiful, and worth the effort. We left camp at Barrett Lakes and traversed high to Potluck Pass. A short and very steep descent later we were at the unnamed lake in the high basin. From there it was a few hundred feet of ascent, some technical, to Cirque Pass. Getting down from this pass the route looked like a couple of drunks wandering aimlessly. But the cliffs of the descent were tough to connect together into passable ramps and it took a good long while to get down to the first small tarns. From there we descended hundreds of feet in elevation to a small pond near the John Muir Trail (JMT) and Lower Palisades Lake. We pulled in at about 5 pm and ended our thrashing about.

Palisades Crest and our camp in morning light

Moving on toward Potluck Pass

The pass is ahead

A beautiful tarn below the pass

Looking back at upper Barrett Lake

Lots of cliffs and ramps to navigate

Pretty spectacular up at 12,000 feet

Finally, we're up

Looking down the south side of the pass

Traversing the pass

Looking down into the basin south of Potluck Pass

There was one Class 2 hiking route down from the pass, and it was STEEP

Down into the basin

Lunch and a foot soak!

Looking back up at the pass we just came over

Panorama of the largest lake in the basin

Getting around the lake and over to Cirque Pass was not trivial

And yes, there is still snow to hike on, even in August

Ascending to Cirque Pass

The views never end

Cirque Pass is now behind us. What a maze of cliffs and ramps

As we continue down we finally get a look at our destination for the day, near Lower Palisade Lake

Even the last slope was tricky with slippery, steep grass ramps

From camp, a panoramic image of Lower Palisades Lake with the Palisades Crest on the left

Day 3 (9.8 miles, 600 feet elevation gain). Having traversed the Palisades Basin we had to get back. The only two choices were to reverse the route or hike back around on the JMT. Neither of us had any interest in hiking those technical passes again, so we took the tourist route. From Lower Palisades Lake where we were camped the JMT descends beside Palisades Creek to join the Middle Fork Kings River in the spectacular LeConte Canyon. It was a relatively easy day, all on trail, but the lack of trail maintenance in this area is painfully evident. Since we were last on this section of trail during our 2016 thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail, hundreds of trees have blown down on the trail. It was a mess and a serious disappointment to us that the National Park Service can't get a trail maintenance crew in there to clear out the trees. It seems these days that trail maintenance is only done on front country trails or those used by horse packers. Sad...And it is a national embarrassment that Kings Canyon National Park has allowed a section of the John Muir Trail to be abandoned.

After reaching the junction at LeConte Canyon we turned north and hiked up the Kings River below the dramatic scenery. It was a lovely afternoon. At the base of the turn for the ascent back up to Bishop Pass we pitched our tent.

Heading down Palisades Creek on the JMT

Palisades Creek

Looking down Palisades Creek toward LeConte Canyon

Descending the "Golden Staircase," a marvel in trail building. Too bad the Park Service is letting it crumble from lack of maintenance.

The locals have no fear

I could show you dozens of photos of down trees across the trail, but you get the idea...

Okay, one more. There is a trail somewhere in this mess

Moving in to LeConte Canyon

Grouse Meadow in LeConte Canyon

The Citadel

The Citadel from a different angle, along with Ladder Lake Falls on the right

One more look back at The Citadel

Our home for the evening along the Kings River

Day 4 (5.3 miles, 2,675 feet elevation gain). Having ended the previous day in LeConte Canyon at only 8,800 feet elevation, there was lots of up to do to get back to Bishop Pass. But when we looked in our food bag there was still two days of provisions left. Why go out now? We decided to head back up toward Bishop Pass then explore Dusy Basin a little more. There was a lake in the uppermost part of the basin that was calling our names. And so we went - up, up, up. As we climbed up to Dusy the views across LeConte Canyon kept getting better. It's a spectacular scene that I never tire of, no matter how many times I see it.

We left the trail below Bishop Pass and wandered over to the uppermost lake, directly below the Palisades Crest and Isosceles Peak. We had an entire afternoon to snooze and stare at the scenery. Awesome.

This bridge over Dusy Branch is a little beat up, but has survived so far

LeConte Canyon

Dusy Branch

LeConte Canyon panorama

Look carefully, Susan is in this photo. It's a beautiful large Sierra Juniper

I hope you're not tired of LeConte Canyon photos

The destroyed bridge over Dusy Branch switchbacks is being rebuilt. For some reason Susan decided to cross the old fashion way.

No fear...

Yes, one more of LeConte Canyon

Even the local Sooty Grouse didn't care when we passed by

Back in Dusy Basin

Lower Dusy Basin

Upper Dusy Basin and Isosceles Peak

Looking down canyon from our camp at Upper Dusy Basin

Palisades Crest from camp

And again in beautiful evening Alpenglow light

Day 5 (6 miles, 500 feet elevation gain). With morning and a nearly empty food container, it was time to go. We took a cross-country route from camp to intersect the trail at Bishop Pass. From there we retraced our steps the five miles to the car.