Binoculars in the Backcountry: Guatemala

Ocellated Turkey

December 13, 2021. We descended from the highlands to the humid tropical lowlands in the afternoon, stopping first at the small El Rosario National Park. Here we would look for (and find) some great hard to get specialty species including Yellow-tailed Oriole, and Blue Seedeater. The seedeater is a seeding bamboo specialist and is very difficult to see. After a walk through the scratchy forest to the back side of the lake, we managed to see one male seedeater for just a moment. No photos of the seedeater, but an American Pygmy Kingfisher was cooperative.

eBird List El Rosario

El Rosario National Park

Those palms may look friendly, but they bite!

American Pygmy Kingfisher

December 14, 2021. Near the town of Santa Ana is one of the few dry savanna habitats in Guatemala that maintain a reasonable amount of native habitat. We spent a couple hours at dawn looking for Black Catbird, Green-backed Sparrow, and Black-throated Bobwhite, among others.

eBird List Santa Ana savanna

After a quick breakfast back at the lodge, we wandered the trails in the adjacent forest and picked up a few more new species.

eBird list Hotel Campestre

Birding the savanna

Black Catbird

Gray-crowned Yellowthroat

Green-backed Sparrow

Black-headed Trogon

Now it was time to head into Tikal National Park. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing one of the major Mayan culture ancient cities. It is estimated that the city was inhabited from 4th century BCE to the 10th century CE. From 1956 to 1970, the site was mapped and excavated by the University of Pennsylvania. The site is surrounded by miles of intact lowland rainforest.

Upon arrival in the afternoon our first birding destination would be near the lodge and the famous airstrip just outside the park proper. This abandoned airstrip was constructed in 1951 and now serves as an excellent walking path for birders to reach dense native forest. We didn't get far down the airstrip before the sky opened up on us. Such is life birding in the rainforest. We did manage to get under cover next to a small pond for a while, enjoying the rain while dry and seeing some great birds.

eBird list lodge area

eBird list airstrip

eBird list airstrip pond

Birding the airstrip

Pouring rain

White-necked Puffbird found on the drive into the park

Black-and-white Warbler

Black-throated Shrike-Tanager female

Boat-billed Herons hanging out in the rain

Eye-ringed Flatbill

Gartered Trogon

Hooded Warbler

Red-crowned Ant-Tanager

Russet-naped Wood-Rail

December 15, 2021. Today was park day! We spent the entire day in the park, seeing much more than the average tourist. Both John and Sunshine literally grew up here, spending a lot of time in their youth chasing birds and learning the culture with their parents. And as Susan puts it, she got to see a lot of rocks! The only downside to the day was that it rained - pretty much all day. But we got by, with our rain-gear and umbrellas, and still managed to see all the excavated parts of the city (and more). And we did see a lot of great birds too, including the exceptionally rare Orange-breasted Falcon pair that nest high atop one of the temples. What an awesome day.

eBird list Tikal morning

eBird list Tikal afternoon

Ready for the rain!

John's friend Gabriel joined us for part of the day

A few of the great birds seen while getting our culture!

Black-throated Shrike-Tanager male

Brown Jay

Orange-breasted Falcons sit high atop a temple in the rain. Photo courtesy Gabriel Cordòn

Keel-billed Toucan

Red-lored Parrot

Roadside Hawk

White-whiskered Puffbird

December 16, 2021. Before leaving the park lodge we birded the airstrip one last time, picking up a few more missing species.

eBird list airstrip

We finished the day near the airport town of Flores, wrapping up our trip along the shores of Lago Petén Itzá.

eBird list Biotopo Cerro Cahui

December 17, 2021. Today was getaway day, but not before a quick morning stop on our way to the airport for one last bird outing! My camera gear was packed up so I'll just have to be happy with the memories.

eBird list Tayazal

We can't thank the guys enough for such a fantastic trip - great birds and friendship. For anyone reading this and even considering a trip the the beautiful birding destination of Guatemala, we highly recommend Xikanel Birding Adventures. You won't be disappointed.