This is a place we have kicked around hiking for years. We've driven by many times, and even day-hiked once in a search for the local specialty bird. We decided that this would be the year and added it as the third hike of our big trip.
The Ruby Mountains lie in northeast Nevada, an isolated range of high peaks (several over 11,000 feet) and deep canyons with extensive glacial evidence. This is also the only North America home for the Himalayan Snowcock, introduced to the area as a game bird between 1965 and 1979. While there are estimated to be less than 500 birds in the wild, they are countable as an ABA bird (added at a time when the ABA committee was obviously much more lenient than they are today). Besides, it would be a lot of fun to see one of these very large grouse if we could manage it.
This trip was planned using the fantastic resources available at Backpacking in the Ruby Mountains, specifically the Lakes Loop Hike. While the author estimates 19 miles for this loop hike, my GPS measurements were closer to 25 miles. Part of that was likely from wandering from his direct lines in some areas.
Day 1 - Walking with Goats
We arrive at the end of the Lamoille Canyon road around 10:30AM and set off on the short 2-mile formal trail to Island Lake. This is the last trail we will walk on for a couple of days. Island Lake is well known as one of two places easily reached for those trying to add the snowcock to their life list. Most set out in the dark to reach this lake at dawn to listen and scan the cliffs. With our late morning start there is little chance of seeing a bird so we aren't disappointed when the closest we get is finding snowcock poop on the ground as we moved beyond the lake and past the beaten track to the cliffs above. Our route aims for a low point on the ridge to the west of Island Lake reaching 10,800 feet before plunging off the west side. This is our instant introduction to off-trail hiking in the Rubies - if you aren't going straight up, you're going straight down.
|Trailhead parking and route to Island Lake in the mountains on the left|
|Looking back to trailhead|
|Island Lake Basin|
|Cross country above Island Lake. Our goal is the lowest notch in the ridge.|
|Still a few flowers|
|And these alpine flowers are tiny|
|Nearly to the pass|
|View back to Island Lake from the top|
As we stand on top surveying the narrow talus, scree, and dirt choked notch in the cliff face in front of us, I notice a Mountain Goat (also introduced to the Rubies) gently tiptoeing down the slope at the bottom. OK, the goat looks like he's taking it warily down this one, how the hell are us pathetic humans going to pull it off?!! Knowing that our trip route author had survived to write about it, we carefully pick our way down the slope one at a time.
|This is steep!|
|Look carefully and you'll see Susan in the notch on the right|
|Look even more carefully and you'll see the Susan dot farther down in the middle|
|Looking back up to the top. The 2-D effect of the image doesn't do justice to how steep this was|
|Traversing above the cliff band before finishing the descent into Thomas Canyon|
|West side of Thomas Canyon|
|The beaver pond and sunset light on the east slope of Thomas Canyon|
|Camp in Thomas Canyon|
Day 2 - Yo-Yo Hiking
|Looking back into Thomas Canyon from the ridge. Camp was at the beaver pond in the lower right.|
|Right Fork Canyon from the top|
|Right Fork Canyon|
|Right Fork Canyon|
|Right Fork Canyon|
|Leaving Right Fork Canyon|
|The tributary canyon approach to Echo Lake|
|Camp in the canyon|
Right Fork Canyon
Day 3 -The Voice
I can only describe the call of a snowcock as a cross between the squealing whistle of a bull elk - and the Jetson's spaceship car. They tend to be most vocal right at dawn calling from prominent perches on high cliffs. In the tent with the light hardly bright enough to see 100 yards, and nodding in and out of consciousness, I hear one and he's close. Instantly wide awake I ask Susan if she just heard that. Yes, the call of a snowcock. We jump out of the tent and begin scanning the cliffs above. Nothing. While I get hot water started Susan walks up the ridge a ways searching. Nothing. We know these guys are elusive, but come on! We pack up satisfied with a "close call."
We are perched high above Box Canyon in the tributary and must descend to the bottom. Our route goes down another impossibly steep slope with much micro route finding necessary to avoid cliffs and talus. At the bottom we find a lovely creek just in time for a long break.
|A well earned break|
We move upstream along the creek for a mile, finding and losing a faint use trail multiple times. Eventually we arrive at the place in the canyon wall we will climb to leave Box Canyon and enter our next objective - Kleckner Creek Canyon. As with all of these canyons, the wall is steep, sometimes obstructed with brush or downed trees. The occasional mixture of use and game trails wander here and there but we find our way to the top of the ridge. Our route author's downloadable GPS track has been invaluable throughout the trip and this section is no exception.
A long down-slope traverse toward Kleckner Creek ends in finally picking up a good trail that takes us up stream to the outlet of Favre Lake and the intersection of the maintained Ruby Crest Trail which will eventually take us back to the trailhead.
|Moving up Box Canyon. Not much trail here.|
|Kleckner Creek Canyon from the divide with Box Canyon|
|Giant cairn shows the way|
|Go this way!|
|Kleckner Creek Canyon|
|Ruby Divide approaching Favre Lake|
|Favre Lake from trail above, looking back to Kleckner Creek|
|Liberty Lake and the Ruby Crest|
|Liberty Lake and the Ruby Crest from near Liberty Pass|
|Lamoille Canyon from Liberty Pass|
|Camp at Lamoille Lake|
|Sunset over the outlet of Lamoille Lake|
Day 4 - It's a Bird!It is dawn again, that first breath of light on a new day. Snug in our bags with no hurry planned for our day we doze. Snowcock! There are at least two calling from the ridge above camp. I am out first, scanning the cliffs, and Susan quickly follows. It is light enough to see to the top of the cliff 400 feet above, but just barely. We scan and scan with our binoculars, looking for any movement. Finally my gaze makes it to the top of the ridge and I sweep from right to left. There he is on top of a boulder, right at the skyline, head thrown back like a barnyard rooster. Down comes the ethereal call echoing through the canyon. We have our bird.
He is much too far for photos, and straight up a cliff face, so we are satisfied with excellent binocular views that last for several minutes. Eventually he drops off the boulder and quiets, going on with his day as we must with ours. Breakfast is a happy affair and we pack our gear for the last time on this trip. We drop out of the cirque and pass by the diminutive Dollar Lakes before the final miles to the car. It has been a good trip - we've seen some beautiful new country and a very cool bird. What more can you ask?
|Sunrise on Lamoille Lake|
|The final descent to the car with a little of the western forest fires smoke in the air|
Lamoille and Dollar Lakes