Sunday, November 5, 2017

Spiny

We arrived late in the afternoon in Tulear, and continued on to Ifaty a short distance north. This is the location of the Reniala Baobab Forest, a beautiful protected spiny forest remnant. Our local guides know this forest intimately and quickly sought out our target species. Within an hour of so we had seen our last remaining mesite, Subdesert Mesite, our last ground-roller, Long-tailed Ground-roller, a couple new couas, and several others. Walking the beautiful spiny forest with all its unique plants and birds made for a special afternoon.





Long-tailed Ground-roller

Running Coua

Subdesert Mesite

The next morning we returned to Reniala at dawn to get a few more spiny forest species and enjoy the cool morning air in a spot that will get blistering hot by 9 am. It was another fun time in the forest. 




Lafresnaye's Vanga

Madagascar Kestrel

Namaqua Dove

Subdesert Mesite family roost

We left there and moved to the port at Tulear for an hour boat ride across the gulf to Anakao. This tiny village can also be reached by vehicle but it would take all day on horrible roads. The hour-long speedboat was a lot more fun. Besides, it was low tide in the port and the only way out to the speedboat was across a long mud flat. We traveled out there on a real Zebu cart - a trip highlight for me!










Once we had our bags in the lodge we jumped right on a traditional prirogue (with modern 15hp motor) and cruised a few kilometers off shore to Nosy Ve Island, the only breeding location for Red-tailed Tropicbird in Madagascar. After wandering around the island for a while we ate campfire cooked fish (caught an hour earlier) and sides. Outstanding!







Red-tailed Tropicbird

Red-tailed Tropicbird

White-fronted Plover





Our last day in this area had us traveling by 4X4 to a saline lake 60 km south. Tsimanampetsotsa National Park holds a 25 kilometer long salt lake connected by underground river to the sea. It also has numerous fresh water springs so is brackish. It’s hard to imagine an inland lake, miles from the sea, rising and falling with the ocean tide, but it does. Of note here were Greater Flamingos and Madagascar Plover. The salt crystals in the lake make for a beautiful blue color in the sunlight. We also tromped around the nearby spiny forest to see a limestone cave with blind fish.








Black-winged Stilt

Greater Flamingos

Greater Flamingos

Madagascar Harrier-hawk

Madagascar Plover

Madagascar Lark

We are off tomorrow to (hopefully) fly to Port Dauphin and Berenty Reserve. As this involves Air Madness and two flights, wish us luck!

Saturday, November 4, 2017

Transition

We left the eastern rain forest and headed southwest, eventually to reach the dry west coast and spiny forests of the south. A day long drive through interesting scenery got us to the edge of Isalo National Park and the beautiful sandstone massifs.






We spent the following day exploring the park on foot. This was primarily a scenic day but we see a few nice birds and our first Ring-tailed Lemurs. This lemur is probably the best know of all Madagascar lemurs and a whole lot of fun to watch. We should see a lot more of them later in the trip.









Madagascar Bee-eater


Ring-tailed Lemur


Up very early the next morning, we traveled to the dry forest of Zombitse National Park. This is one of the few tiny locations for the Appert’s Tetraka, our target species for the short visit. While a few of us got an ever so quick look at the bird, it eluded my camera lens. We did see lots of Cuckoo-rollers, the only species of its family. It is neither a cuckoo, nor roller, and a very strange bird. From there we spent the rest of the day traveling to the true spiny forest and the coastal community of Tulear. 

Cuckoo-roller

Cuckoo-roller

Red-capped Coua

Thursday, November 2, 2017

Rain, Rain, Go Away...

Funny thing about a rain forest – it can rain. And rain it did for the entire two days of our stay in Ranamofana National Park. The locals said it was too early in the season for this much rain, but tell that to the rain gods. This was our only chance for two of the ground-rollers and one mesite, among other species, so we slopped around for both days. Umbrellas and rain gear helped, but we came back each day soaked to the skin. But we had a blast anyway! Our local guides were amazing, they really knew the birds and where to find them. We even had guides for other birders in the area asking how we found what we did under the condition! Lucky us.

It takes a while to get anywhere in Madagascar. From the segment of rain forest at the two national parks near Andasibe, we traveled for most of two days to get to Ranomanfana. The roads are narrow, full of potholes, and choked with tiny villages that slow traffic to a crawl. But seeing all the sites is fascinating, from the scenery to the various walk of life. 





Our first morning has us climbing in a rain cloud to the top of a mountain for Yellow-bellied Sunbird-Asity. We only got brief looks of the amazing species, but it was enough. We picked up a few other birds this day but it was tough. The conditions were just really terrible, not just for the birders but the birds as well. One species of animal seemed to love the conditions - leeches. We battled them all day, constantly pulling the little blood suckers from our clothes, skin, and other parts. Susan had one on her face that nearly attached to her eyelid and another on the lens of her glasses! Her latex gloves, primarily for mosquito protection, sure came in handy for rain warmth and leech protection.





The second day wasn’t quite as bad. We started with another climb to see the Brown Mesite. What a cool forest bird. Shortly after, one of our guides heard a calling male Pitta-like Ground-roller. That really is it’s name, and it does certainly remind us of a pitta, as all the ground-rollers do. We tracked him down and had fantastic looks. And then a Short-legged Ground-roller sounded off and our guides managed to find him and the Mrs. in a nest tree. Wow. The afternoon had us in a marsh where we managed a cooperative White-throated Rail. The evening walk produced some great chameleons, a Rufous Mouse Lemur, and a Greater Dwarf Lemur.

Brown Mesite

Chameleon

Giraffe-necked Weevil

Green Bright-eyed Frog

Leaf-tailed Gecko

Leech

Pitta-like Ground-roller

Pitta-like Ground-roller
  
Rufous Mouse-Lemur

Short-legged Ground-roller
White-throated Rail

Greater Dwarf Lemur


Even with the abysmal conditions, the rain forest treated us well with great birds and memories. Now on to drier areas of the south. 

Our guides, JJ, Chantal, and William