We arrived late in the afternoon in Tulear, and continued on
to Ifaty a short distance north. This is the location of the Reniala Baobab
Forest, a beautiful protected spiny forest remnant. Our local guides know this
forest intimately and quickly sought out our target species. Within an hour of
so we had seen our last remaining mesite, Subdesert Mesite, our last
ground-roller, Long-tailed Ground-roller, a couple new couas, and several
others. Walking the beautiful spiny forest with all its unique plants and birds
made for a special afternoon.
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Long-tailed Ground-roller |
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Running Coua |
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Subdesert Mesite |
The next morning we returned to Reniala at dawn to get a few
more spiny forest species and enjoy the cool morning air in a spot that will
get blistering hot by 9 am. It was another fun time in the forest.
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Lafresnaye's Vanga |
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Madagascar Kestrel |
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Namaqua Dove |
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Subdesert Mesite family roost |
We left
there and moved to the port at Tulear for an hour boat ride across the gulf to
Anakao. This tiny village can also be reached by vehicle but it would take all
day on horrible roads. The hour-long speedboat was a lot more fun. Besides, it
was low tide in the port and the only way out to the speedboat was across a
long mud flat. We traveled out there on a real Zebu cart - a trip highlight for
me!
Once we had our bags in the lodge we jumped right on a
traditional prirogue (with modern 15hp motor) and cruised a few kilometers off
shore to Nosy Ve Island, the only breeding location for Red-tailed Tropicbird
in Madagascar. After wandering around the island for a while we ate campfire
cooked fish (caught an hour earlier) and sides. Outstanding!
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Red-tailed Tropicbird |
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Red-tailed Tropicbird |
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White-fronted Plover |
Our last day in this area had us traveling by 4X4 to a
saline lake 60 km south. Tsimanampetsotsa National Park holds a 25 kilometer
long salt lake connected by underground river to the sea. It also has numerous
fresh water springs so is brackish. It’s hard to imagine an inland lake, miles
from the sea, rising and falling with the ocean tide, but it does. Of note here
were Greater Flamingos and Madagascar Plover. The salt crystals in the lake
make for a beautiful blue color in the sunlight. We also tromped around the
nearby spiny forest to see a limestone cave with blind fish.
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Black-winged Stilt |
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Greater Flamingos |
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Greater Flamingos |
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Madagascar Harrier-hawk |
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Madagascar Plover |
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Madagascar Lark |
We are off tomorrow to (hopefully) fly to Port Dauphin and
Berenty Reserve. As this involves Air Madness and two flights, wish us luck!
What a diverse country. Thanks for the photos showing all the different places. Several new adventures and highlights I can see. The Vanga's bill looks big like a Kookaburra. Do they crack seeds with it? An inland lake connected to the sea..... Amazing.
ReplyDeleteWonderful post. Thanks for making it happen.
Thanks! These vangas eat large insects and reptiles.
ReplyDelete