Wednesday, April 29, 2026

Japan One Crazy Long Day


Some days, we did exploring in moderation, and then there was this day.  With an early start we were able to walk past the Hokanji pagoda without the hordes that usually pack the street.  We were heading to Kiyomizu, a vast sprawling temple complex.  



Almost empty










Afterwards we walked through a sea of narrow streets, many people, Amazon delivery vans and taxis to the bus and Manshuim temple. Established in the 8th century and containing extraordinary examples of Shoin architecture.  It was filled with lovely paintings and was so empty and peaceful.  No photos were allowed inside.

We stumbled upon Enkoji and knew nothing about it, but it was on the way, so why not.  Turns out this was one of our favorites, an amazing rock garden and great paintings.  Even a few plum trees.  Very very nice.









After seeing the two other famous pagodas of Kyoto, we had to visit the Silver Pavilion, Ginkakuji.  Very famous.  Very crowded.  











Then we wandered to Honenin, which one author described as his favorite temple bar none.  We didn't share his enthusiasm.  

Otoyo Shrine with its rats, and Kumano Nyakuoji Shrine with its healing calf.  Yes, you rub the calf on whatever body part is not up to scratch, and it then it feels better.  We rubbed the back and boy howdy after a nice sitting rest and some water, our backs did feel better.  


Rubbing its back relieved our back pain


Rats were new


Eikan do Temple is a fall foliage must do.  As we were here in spring, we thought about skipping it.  It is also lovely in spring.  Rock gardens, paintings, buddhas, in a peaceful setting.  We had to rush though as we had one more stop we planned to visit.





Nanzwn ji did not disappoint.  It was one of the main points of our day, but having spent too much time in other temples, we were rushed.  Another stop we wished we had more time to enjoy.  Fortunately, we quit doing crazy packed days after this one.


The paintings were lovely


And a nice rock garden



We couldn't take photos of some of the wall paintings, but we could of the movie showing the wall paintings.




It was dark and I was very hungry when we finished.  We saw a hamburger place named dragon burger.  It sounded appropriate.  After that it was just more walking to the bus and a nice hot soak in our tub.  30,000 steps on concrete feels like a million miles on the trail.






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