Monday, November 14, 2022

India - Part 3

October 21 to 29, 2022. We left Agra on an overnight train heading south to Tadoba National Park. When planning for the trip, we included two different parks to improve our odds of seeing a tiger. Even though we got to see one earlier at Ranthambore, we would gladly see another at Tadoba given the chance. The train had a handful of air conditioned sleeper rooms, so we traveled comfortably. It wasn't Amtrak, but all in all just fine. After arrival in the city of Nagpur we had a three hour drive to Tadoba National Park.



The train station in Agra

On arrival in Nagpur, the porters made short work of our suitcases


Over the course of four days we would do five safaris into the park in search of tigers, and any other birds and wildlife. Tadoba has a unique rule - no cell phones allowed in the park. This somewhat limited the number of scenery photos that I took, but I did manage a few by switching lenses occasionally on my wildlife camera. We were joined on all safaris by local park guide Ramrav, a really great guy who worked very hard for us. 

Typical vehicle used for safaris

Loaded up and ready to go



This sign next to a lake in the park is self explanatory

Sunrise on one safari

Tour guide Peter and local guide Ramrav

Green Bee-eater

Indian Nightjar

Spotted Deer

Gray-headed Fish-Eagle

Indian Scops-Owl

Gray Langur

Tawny Pipit

Changeable Hawk-Eagle

Gray Junglefowl

After four unsuccessful safaris without a sniff of a tiger, we headed out on our last afternoon. As the time went by we resigned ourselves to missing out at this park. With about an hour to go before the hard park closure time we got wind of a tiger seen at long range. Off we went in the search, along with a number of other jeeps. These tiger chases can be exciting, as the driver flies down the bumpy dirt roads, and it's all us tourist can do to hold on and not fall out of the jeep. Arriving in the area we searched with the other vehicles - all with no luck. After a time we headed out, slowly working our way toward the exit gate. Soon after we passed another jeep. A short exchange between drivers and guides ensued; we found out that one of the tigers was out roaming and we weren't far away. The driver pushed the pedal to the floor and off we went! A turn here, a turn there, and all of a sudden we came around a corner skidding to a halt - there she was, right in the middle of the road! (photo at the top of the page) These big animals totally ignore vehicles, and we got to watch her for several minutes as she went about her business and eventually moved off into the forest. Our patience had finally paid off, and at the last minute we got an outstanding sighting.


But we weren't quite done. As we moved toward the exit gate an animal was seen walking toward us on the road. As we slowed and got a little closer it was identified as an Indian Wild Dog, or Dhole. This lone male was unusual away from a pack, but we didn't complain seeing a new life mammal. 

Indian Wild Dog

As the driver hurried to make closing time at the gate, we all celebrated our good last minute fortunes.

The next morning the park was closed for the Diwali holiday so we went on a walkabout just outside the park gate. Its kind of spooky walking in an area regularly frequented by tigers, but as they are mostly nocturnal and haven't caused a problem in this area (think eating local villagers), it was considered safe. It was nice to get out and do some walking after several days of jeep safaris. 

eBird list Navagon Gate



Golden Orb Weaver Spider

Pugmark (tiger paw print) along our walking route

After lunch we made the long drive back to Nagpur. We had a flight to catch the next morning. With the Diwali holiday at a hotel next to the airport, we were pretty much the only guests there. We got the royal treatment by the staff. One tradition of Diwali is to create colored dry sand paintings. Absolutely beautiful!




At this point we would leave Peter Lobo and join his colleague Sudeesh for the remainder of our trip. Many thanks to Peter for organizing the entire trip and guiding us for the first two weeks. We had a lot of fun together and look forward to future tours with you!

The next leg of our trip was the remote Andaman Islands in the Indian Ocean. In fact, these islands are so far from the India mainland that once there you are closer to Thailand than India. 

Our goal for 3 days was to see all of the 20 endemic bird species, plus anything else that jumped in front of our eyes. We did extremely well seeing 19 but only hearing the Andaman Nightjar. It used to be very expensive to get to the islands, but with increasing tourism the flight cost is inexpensive and good lodging is widely available. 

A few sample (but not all) eBird lists:

October 26 AM

October 26 PM

October 27 AM

October 27 evening owling







Guide Sudeesh who would be with us for the remainder of the tour


Tim has a friend who really likes bananas

Mangroves at low tide

Getting a look at the extremely difficult Andaman Crake, one person at a time


On our way back from owling, Sudeesh wrangled a poisonous viper from the road

Andaman Bulbul


Andaman Coucal

Andaman Drongo

Andaman Green-Pigeon

Andaman Masked Owl

Andaman Teal

Andaman Woodpecker

Long-tailed Parakeet

Andaman Boobook

Andaman Scops-Owl

Andaman Scops-Owl

Andaman Cuckoo-Dove

Brown Shrike

Common Redshank

Hume's Boobook

White-throated Kingfisher

Andaman Pit Viper. The snake Sudeesh wrangled out of the road 

Andaman Serpent-Eagle

Andaman Treepie

Black-naped Oriole

The moon while we were owling

Andaman Green Bronzeback

Andaman Green Bronzeback

Andaman Wood-Pigeon, our final and most difficult endemic, seen just shortly before we headed for the airport

After our days on the island we were heading back to the mainland. But this time to the far south of India and guide Sudeesh's home turf. 10 more days of extreme birding to come!


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