Binoculars in the Backcountry: Namibia

Lion grooming

Previosly:
Namibia - The Desert
Namibia - Ocean and Mountains

From the Erongo Mountains we went north to Etosha National Park. Our first stop was just outside the west park entrance at Hobatere, a local people conservancy with a fantastic lodge, game watering hole, and plenty of animals. This was our first location where the lodge grounds were fenced with electrified wire. It's a strange feeling to realize you are no longer even close to the top of the food chain...

The late afternoon arrival gave us time before dinner to watch animals coming to the waterhole from the lodge deck in the near 100F heat. We also signed up for the night game drive for some after dark action.

Waterhole view from the deck. There is a second, larger pond in the upper left before the hill.

The night excursion was quite amazing as we saw the local pride of three lionesses and five year plus youngsters. Owls and other night animals put on a show as well.

The eyes of hundreds of Double-banded Sandgrouse reflect in the spotlight

African Wild Cat

Lion

Small-spotted Genet

Verreaux's Eagle-Owl

In the morning we walked the grounds for birds before retiring to the shade to watch the action at the waterhole. Several new species were added to our list.

Hobatere morning bird list

Bare-cheeked Babbler

Black-backed Puffbird

The puffbird "puffs" his back

Desert Rose

Meeve's Starling

Violet-backed Starling

By late morning we were sitting in the shade and watching the lions as they worked the waterhole, sometimes making half-hearted attempts at a meal. Our guide Charly said we weren't going anywhere as the lion behavior was indicative of a serious hunt. Animals came and went all morning as the two big lionesses lounged in the shade and gave them all the eye. With the local drought and heat of summer, the animals had no choice but to come to the waterhole.

A lioness stalks prey

A lioness cruises through the waterhole area

Eland

Giraffes and Southern Oryx

Greater Kudu

Mountain Zebra

Warthog

Zebra mob at the waterhole

The radio collared lioness charges

A spooked Impala

The animals watch the lionesses warily

As the heat of afternoon climbed and the lions dozed in the shade, everyone thought the action might be over until later. But the lions were obviously hungry and started back up in the middle of the afternoon. One lioness even took a shot by herself at a giraffe.

A lioness chases a giraffe

And then behind a grove of trees we couldn't see past, a cloud of dust and stampeding zebras indicated some more action. Nobody was quite sure what had happened until a little while later we saw one of the lionesses with blood on her face.

Lioness with bloody face heads toward the young lions

That indicated a likely kill and we were pretty sure where it might be. Soon the lioness brought the youngsters in to the water for a drink. After watering, the entire pride moved toward the suspected kill area and out of view.

The young lions come in for a drink

At the waterhole

Our afternoon drive with the local guide time was approaching, so Charly talked him into starting a little early and heading the safari vehicle to the area where we suspect the kill had happened. It wasn't long before we came to the pride gorging on fresh zebra. The young lions were going at it heartily as the adults watched.