Bhutan - Bumthang to Tingtibi

Birding the monastery

This will be an abbreviated post as we've been traveling and birding late, and without internet for a few days. We were up early the next morning for a special visit to the Tharpaling Monastery, high on a mountain above the Bumtang Valley. This is the place to see Himalayan Monal and other high altitude species. The monastery sits at 11,400 feet elevation and our arrival at dawn saw a brisk temperature of about 30F. Brrr...

eBird list

Our driver Phuntsho prepares breakfast outside the monastery gate

One of the 47 species of wild rhododendron in Bhutan growing along the roadside

Alpine Accentor

Coal Tit

Green-backed Tit

Himalayan Monal

Hoary-throated Barwing

Large-eared Pika

Mrs. Hume's Sunbird

Rufous-breasted Accentor

Rufous-fronted Bushtit

Spotted Nutcracker

Stripe-throated Yuhina

White-browed Fulvetta

White-winged Grosbeak

Yellow-billed Blue Magpie (my 4000th world bird)

We were very fortunate to also be there on a day when the monastery was holding the Melam Chenmo religious ceremony, a once a year event. For just a short time they unveiled the Thongdrol scroll, and we were there to see the beautiful artwork.

We continued on to Trongsa and the next day on to the low elevation village of Tingtibi, birding our way through central Bhutan each day, and then spending a day in the Tingtibi area. Of special note here was our viewing of one of the 50 rarest birds in the world - White-bellied Heron. There are perhaps as few as 300 birds left in the world. From the road high above the river we got to look down on an occupied nest, with three eggs. Wow.

eBird list
eBird list

Birding the roadside

This roadblock cost us about an hour as the equipment above chucked dirt and
huge boulders down onto the road, before being pushed away by the grader

Another half an hour lost to a roadside coronavirus screening. We all passed.

Birding at dawn near Tingtibi

Tim and Chubzang photograph the Tawny Fish-Owl

Black-eared Shrike-Babbler

Blue-throated Barbet

Eurasian Hoopoe

Golden Langur

Himalayan Black Bulbul

Rufous-necked Hornbill

Tawny Fish-Owl

White-bellied Heron

As for our current event note: Our second India tour has now been canceled as India has suspended tourist visas until at least April 15. We will be coming home early, and are working on the details now.

Bhutan - Phrumseng La National Park

Phrumseng La National Park is billed as one of the finest birding spots in all the world, boasting a species list of well over 350 birds, 70 mammals, and 600 plants in a mountain range that encompasses 6 habitat zones from subtropical to alpine. The forest is intact old-growth that has virtually never seen a saw. The weather didn't favor us with unusual cold and too much rain for this time of year, but we did very well with our birding. The majestic scenery only added to the experience. We spent three full days in the mid-elevations and a final day traveling up and over Thrumshing La Pass at 12,400 feet before descending back down to a more temperate 8,500 feet in the Bumthang Valley for the evening.

Day 1

eBird list

Bhutan Laughingthrush

Blue-bearded Bee-eater

Grey-cheeked Warbler

Grey-chinned Minivet

Red-faced Liocichla

Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush

Rusty-fronted Barwing

Striated Laughingthrush

White-throated Laughingthrush

Day 2

eBird list

Breakfast in the field

That's the road cutting through the hillside. This tiny one lane road is the national east-west highway

Hunting Ward's Trogon in the bamboo forest

Ashy-throated Warbler

Brown-throated Treecreeper

Green Shrike-Babbler

Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush

Scaly Laughingthrush

White-naped Yuhina

Day 3

eBird list

Guide Chubzang scouts for birds

Bhutan Giant Flying Squirrel 

Golden-throated Barbet

Little Forktail

Red-headed Trogon

Rufous-necked Hornbill

Day 4

eBird list going up
eBird list heading down

Our day up and over the mountain turned out to be more of an adventure than anyone expected. The rain from several prior days fell as a solid in the higher elevations. Thankfully our skilled driver Phuntsho navigated it expertly, and it was all the fun anyone could ask for. Chubzang, who has been guiding for over 20 years and has been over this pass more times than he can count, said it was the most snow he had ever seen. Lucky us!

Heading up to the pass in the clouds

The Sengor Valley at nearly 10,000 feet during the ride up

Doing a little roadside snow birding

The road gets a little treacherous toward the summit

Like everywhere else, the road is cut into the side of the mountain

Finally after a bit of white knuckle riding, we're at the top

On the way down, the one-lane road proved to be an issue at times

Once we get below most of the snow, it's time for a field lunch

The forest at this high elevation is beautiful with hemlock, larch and firs

Blood Pheasant

Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch

Little Bunting

Snow Pigeon

Snow Pigeons

Snow Pigeons

White-browed Fulvetta

Yellow-throated Fulvetta

On a current events note: The Bhutan government closed the country to all inbound tourists yesterday due to the coronavirus epidemic. Since we're already here it's all good for us. We just hope we can get home when the time comes.